BURMA? Where on earth is Burma, and who on earth would want to go there?
Comments like this did not slow my preparations for the long day’s journey into day — yes, it got earlier and earlier as we flew from Washington, D.C., across Canada and the Bering Sea to Tokyo. We boarded a plane bound for Bangkok, Thailand, adding seven hours to the 14 we had just endured. Showers and a few hours’ sleep in Bangkok restored us enough to fly on to Rangoon, Burma. (Rangoon is now known as Yangon and Burma is Myanmar, but the older names are still widely used.)
As the plane approached Rangoon airport, some passengers exclaimed over the sight of the enormous golden Shwe Dagon pagoda. It may deserve its place as one of the wonders of the world. There is more gold in Shwe Dagon than all the vaults of England, not to mention diamonds and all precious jewels. That afternoon the sun was glaring on Shwe Dagon, making an impressive entrance into Burma. All I thought was pity those poor souls who think that building a fancy pagoda will get them to heaven.
My mind was filled with thoughts of newlyweds Adoniram and Ann Judson at the wharf in Rangoon, stepping off a boat from India onto Rangoon’s dirty crowded street 190 years ago. These courageous missionaries — America’s first overseas missionaries of any denomination — were determined to translate, teach, preach and do whatever was necessary to share with the Burmese the good news of Jesus. After reaching Burma in 1812, Judson mastered the difficult Burmese language, completed writing a Burmese grammar and baptized his first convert by 1819. He finished translating the Burmese Bible from the Greek and Hebrew by 1834 and worked on the English-Burmese dictionary that is still in use today.
How did I happen to go to a land a world away whose economy is shattered and most wage-earners take home only $9 or $10 a month? How could I have hoped to see the land of my hero, Adoniram Judson?
This chance to walk where Judson walked was because of speaker, writer and missionary emeritus Rosalie Hunt. She and her husband, Bob, are members of First Baptist Church, Guntersville. As a missionary kid (MK) Rosalie grew up in China where her parents spent their lives as missionaries. She and Bob served as missionaries in the Far East all of their professional careers. Rosalie started planning this trip when President U Win Tin of Myanmar Baptist Churches Union asked her to take part in the ceremonies of the 175th anniversary of First Baptist Church of Moulmein.
There are older churches in Burma, but none with more than 175 years of continuous service. First Baptist, Moulmein, is the oldest Baptist church on any missions field. Today there are 3 1/2 million believers in Burma, and 2 million of these are Baptists.
Celebrants at Moulmein came from all over the country. There were at least eight from America. One was a GA leader from Missouri, a native Burman whose family had been leaders in the Myanmar Baptist Convention for years.
Our Burma group included Adoniram Judson’s great-grandson Stanley Hanna and his family. Hanna is a retired physics professor at Stanford University in California. Born in Burma, he was eager to see places dear to his heart from childhood as well as to bring greetings at the anniversary celebration. Kaye Carlisle of Birmingham, member of Vestavia Hills Baptist Church, also covered Burma with us.
Burma, with a population of more than 46 million, is located between Thailand and India with China to the north. Although Burma is one of the poorest countries in the world, we saw no evidence of severe poverty, even though we traveled from cities to small towns and villages. We saw no beggars or homeless people and children were not lining the roads begging for food. Boys did serve as laborers, for there were youngsters working on roads and highways. Maybe they were out of school for summer, for we were there in December, Burma’s summertime. Children ran about the streets trying to sell old Burmese coins and picture postcards. They appeared well-cared-for and happy, since they all smiled, waved and threw kisses as we passed. Homes and apartments we visited were sparsely furnished, but clean and neat.
Many claim the cause of Burma’s ranking among the “poorest” lists was the tyrannical “reign” of the late Ne Win. After a military takeover, ex-despot Ne Win was allowed to live under house arrest in Rangoon. He spent his time and fortune building a Buddhist pagoda he hoped would bring him a happy afterlife. Richard Erlich of The Washington Times wrote, “He [Ne Win] was largely responsible for turning the relatively wealthy, rice-exporting nation into a ruined, repressive land.” The economy today is largely nationalized and based on agriculture and trade. Rice is Burma’s most important crop, as well as teak.
Rosalie is writing a definitive biography of Adoniram Judson and his amazing adventures in Burma. “More Than a Memory, the Living Legacy of Ann and Adoniram Judson” is actually complete, but the author continues massaging it and tweaking it to perfection.
Among the most exciting stories of Ann and Adoniram Judson in Burma is the first convert. After six years of teaching, translating. writing, preaching and praying, Adoniram Judson should have been rejoicing when Maung Yaw accepted Christ. Maung Yaw came forward to announce that he understood what the leader had explained.
Judson wanted to be sure Maung Yaw understood the life-changing commitment. The meticulous missionary even asked Maung Yaw to write down what he believed. There was great rejoicing for everyone when Maung Yaw was baptized in a little pond by the Judsons’ house. Curious Burmese gathered on the slope, possibly wondering why that white man put one of them under the water and then brought him up with both of them smiling? It was good to stand on that slope even though the pond is gone.
We flew to Mandalay and then went by car to Ava and Aungbinle. We wanted to see the site of one prison where Adoniram had been tortured. Burma was expecting war with Great Britain, so a white face was suspect as a spy. He was thrown to the nasty floor of a small cell with other prisoners, his legs placed in heavy fetters. He was denied fresh clothes and water. He would have died in prison but for the love and care of Ann. She walked five miles a day to bring him food and encouragement.
The Bible translation he had worked on so long was saved when Ann stitched it inside a pillow to smuggle into the prison. The jailer snatched it for himself. Creative Ann made another pillow, prettier than the other. The jailer took it and gave the dirty pillow back to Adoniram.
To see the prison site, we crossed the Irrawaddy River in a wooden boat similar to the one Adoniram and Ann used. Boarding the craft was risky, for we had to step on rocks to a skinny plank to a slightly bigger plank.
Getting off the boat meant a jump for dry land, but we made it. On the other side, small pony carts were waiting. Two of us climbed in each cart. It felt a little like a circus show, as the pony carts were decorated and bells rang every time the carts moved. We reached a big field with four enormous trees in the center. We walked to the middle of the field to stand where Judson suffered. He could see these trees as well as the famous watchtower, the last remaining building of the emperor’s palace. It was chilling to stand there seeing what Adoniram Judson had seen from prison.
Christians in Burma are beautiful. Expressions on their faces show their joy and gratitude in claiming Jesus as their Savior. They are hard workers, they are happy and love their families, their fellowmen and their churches. Since we were there to honor Adoniram and Ann Judson, we were treated like royalty. The Burmese provided chairs for outdoor ceremonies, fanned us and even held umbrellas to shield us from the sun.
Burmese men still wear the traditional longyi, wraparound material which is tied in a knot in front, Longyi are usually in darker colors of plaid or stripes. Women wear longer dresses or skirts.
Men who play the traditional Burmese game of kickball — with a small ball of woven bamboo — just remove the longyi and play ball in plaid shorts like beach shorts. It was interesting to see the longyi thrown over a small tree or shrub while its owner kicks the ball.
Clothing of Baptist pastors varies as much as in Alabama, from a preacher wearing a long formal robe with clerical collar and a silk Mandarin shirt with a large gold cross to a young preacher wearing longyi and short-sleeved plaid shirt.
Adoniram Judson was born in Salem, Mass., the son of a Congregationalist minister. The precocious youngster was reading when he was 3 and was always first in his class. After graduation from college and seminary, he was sure of God’s call to the missions field — specifically Burma. Ann Hasseltine was a beautiful, well-educated young woman. She and Adoniram were sure of their love for each other as well as their call to missions.
Along with several other missionaries bound for India, the handsome young couple boarded the ship with no dread of the for following God’s call to Burma with high hopes of sharing the good news of Jesus.
Life on the tossing boat was hard on Ann, who was sick most of the time. She was so sick she did not even realize her husband was making a life-changing decision. Adoniram, who had a book in his hands most of his life, studied the Bible in Greek and Hebrew. Slowly he realized that baptism was not for babies but for born-again believers. When Ann and Adoniram arrived in India, they were Baptists, not Congregationalists. Therefore, they had no support, since the Congregationalist church had commissioned them and promised their support. Luther Rice, one of the new missionaries, volunteered to return to the United States and tell the Baptists of Ann and Adoniram Judson in Burma. Rice never went back overseas, but covered the east coast gathering missions offerings and inspiring churches to organize mission societies. America’s first missionaries were baptized in India by William Ward, co-worker of the legendary William Carey. (Carey was the world’s first missionary, coming to India from England.) Adoniram and Ann never wavered in their Baptist beliefs.
The Christian Leprosy and Reconstructive Surgery Hospital at Moulmein touched my heart. Chief Surgeon Saw Wah Htoo graciously showed us around the hospital where everything is done in the name of Jesus Christ. He explained that leprosy is almost eradicated and emphasized that the disease is not contagious.
In 1898, American Baptist MK Susan Haswell founded the hospital which was named for her. The name was later changed. She had noticed victims of leprosy lying outside the city with no food, no medicine, no care and she responded to the need. This Christian hospital continues its broad-based ministries of reconstructive surgery, prevention of deformities, surgically treating eye problems, leprosy education and working to boost the self-esteem of those affected by leprosy. Patients were glad to see us as Dr. Htoo took us from bed to bed explaining the treatment. He showed how a finger had been transplanted as well as an ear. He explained why it was going to be necessary to amputate the foot of a lovely teenager. The hospital, not Baptist, is supported by Leprosy Mission International in London, American Leprosy Mission and donations from churches in Burma.
We felt humble and subdued on leaving the hospital, remembering the friendly smiles and sweet faces. We thanked the Lord for the services of Dr. Htoo, who could earn 10 times as much money in another hospital. We were grateful for this little-known ministry at a Christian leprosy hospital in Burma.
Ann Hasseltine Judson died in 1826, leaving a young daughter and a distraught husband with a broken heart. He thought for awhile he could not go on, but managed to struggle through the loss of Ann. Work continued, though without the fervor of earlier years. Adoniram worked closely with missionaries Sarah and George Boardman. After a long illness, George died and the mission station was plunged into grief again.
Adoniram and Sarah continued working together translating, printing, teaching. Later, Adoniram and Sarah fell in love and were married. She had two sons to join Adoniram’s little girl. These were the “family years” for the Judsons as several more children were born. When Sarah died after an illness, Adoniram again collapsed with grief and wondered if he could go on. He cared for all the children until co-workers urged him to return to the United States for awhile. Friends volunteered to keep the children, and Judson returned to America.
He did not like the honors and awards heaped on him, resisting the praise at every turn. He did like well-known magazine writer Emily Chubbuck whom he had met in New York. She was an intellectual with a sunny disposition who could discuss any topic, including world affairs and missions in Burma.
Eventually their friendship and common interests turned into love. Adoniram and Emily were married and returned to Burma. Emily bonded with his children and Sarah’s children as well as the Burmese. She taught school in addition to caring for their growing family. These were happy and fruitful years for the Judsons as well as the mission.
Adoniram’s health was not good. A bout with malaria left him even weaker, and doctors advised a sea voyage and fresh air.
Emily wanted to go with him, but she was expecting another baby any day. She sadly watched as Adoniram was carried through the wharf at Moulmein to the waiting boat. The baby was born a few days later and died shortly thereafter. Heroic Adoniram Judson, the first overseas missionary from America, died at sea and was buried in the Bay of Bengal on April 12, 1850. He was 61 years old.
In December 2002 the Burmese were overjoyed to have Judson’s great-grandson there for the celebrations. (His great-grandmother was Emily Judson.) Christians in Burma are grateful for Ann and Adoniram Judson and the good news they brought to their country, good news that continues through the generations. Older Christians there love to tell of Adoniram Judson baptizing their great-grandfathers and bringing freedom to their entire family as they became Christians and passed the good news through their extended families. Small wonder that the Judsons are revered in Burma.
Ann Judson’s gravesite has a large cross and marble stones, befitting for such a dedicated pioneer. She not only taught the Burmese women and translated tracts for children, she started classes for girls, helped Adoniram with the translations, maintained the large house and frequently the whole mission compound, cared for her family, wrote a book about missions in Burma, made friends with Burmese from the start and rescued Adoniram from prison more than once. Ann was more than courageous.
When a plan failed — to help a Burmese or get her husband out of prison — her sharp mind brought forth another idea and she set out again. She was the first missionary to learn the Siamese language and translate Scriptures into that tongue. Everyone who ever wrote of Ann Judson described a mighty worker in a strange land.
Baptists of Amherst, near Moulmein, need a new church building for service, study and worship. The design is complete, the model is ready, and many cried at the laying of bricks on the plinth of the Ann Judson Memorial Chapel. U Win Tin conducted a meaningful service dedicating the new building. Our group was invited to be part of the ceremony by laying bricks on the structure.
It was very touching to learn that the new church will cost only $30,000. Then I thought of the Burmese who have so little money. They will sacrifice and give beyond their tithes and sacrifice more and then plan a celebration for a new church in a deprived area.
Everyone stood with heads bowed and hands clasped as we laid the bricks in the cement. It was a holy moment. The committed Burmese Christians sang as one, “Great Is Thy Faithfulness.” Thanks be to God for the living legacy of Ann and Adoniram Judson.
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